The Mumbai issue, November 2026
Mumbai
Mumbai is a sensory assault of the highest order, a coastal megalopolis where colonial-era stone monuments stand in the shadow of soaring glass skyscrapers.
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The Mumbai reading list
All 22 Mumbai stories
Tours and ticketsThe lead story
Walking Mumbai's Marine Drive from Nariman Point to Chowpatty
A 3.6-kilometre seafront walk, done properly: where to start, when the lights come on, the one detour that makes the photograph work, and what the Coastal Road has taken away.
Aditi Rane
Tours and tickets
A Mumbai Morning at the Gateway of India
Between 6.30 and noon you can have the arch, the harbour launches and most of Colaba largely to yourself.
Aditi Rane
Tours and tickets
Inside the Dome at Mumbai's Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus
The forecourt and concourse cost nothing, but the dome, the Star Chamber and the rail museum open only on one licensed tour, so the slot you book decides what you actually see.
Aditi Rane
Two Days in Mumbai on Trains, Ferries and Foot
A car-free weekend route through Mumbai built on the suburban railway, the Elephanta ferry and about fifteen kilometres of walking, with real timings, fares and door policies.
Aditi Rane
The Best Mumbai Slum Tours With Local Guides
Nine Dharavi tours run by people who actually live there — ranked honestly by ethics, price, group size and which one suits a couple, a family or a curious solo traveller.
Aditi Rane
More from the Mumbai issue
Mumbai's 9am Ferry to Elephanta and the Day Around It
Aditi Rane
The Parsi Cafés of Mumbai: Bentwood Chairs, Berry Pulav and a Fading World
Aditi Rane
Chowpatty and Beyond: A Local's Guide to Mumbai's Street Food
Marta Kowalska
Mumbai's Bollywood Day from Film City to Midnight Comedy
Aditi Rane
Kanheri, Leopards and Mumbai's Forested Northern Edge
Aditi Rane
Ganpati in Mumbai from the 5am Queue to Chowpatty
Aditi Rane
Marine Drive After Dark: The Queen's Necklace and the City That Refuses to Sleep
Aditi Rane
Riding Mumbai's Western Line After Midnight
Aditi Rane
Fifteen Weekend Escapes Within Two Hours of Mumbai
Aditi Rane
Tours and tickets
Walking Mumbai's Banganga Tank and Malabar Hill Temples
Aditi Rane
Mumbai's Art Deco Mile: Bombay's Jazz-Age Architecture Walk
Aditi Rane
Bandra to Marine Drive on Mumbai's Coastal Road
Aditi Rane
Mumbai's Dhobi Ghat, Before the City Wakes Up
Aditi Rane
Tours and tickets
Inside Mani Bhavan, Gandhi's Mumbai headquarters
Aditi Rane
How Mumbai Eats When the Monsoon Floods the Streets
Marta Kowalska
The Pre-Dawn Fruit Rush at Crawford Market
Marta Kowalska
The Men in White Caps: Inside Mumbai's 130-Year-Old Lunchbox Delivery Machine
Aditi Rane
An insider’s read on Mumbai
Originally an archipelago of seven islands inhabited by the indigenous Koli fisherfolk, the land was ceded to the Portuguese and later to the British East India Company, who connected the islands through massive 19th-century reclamation projects. This engineered peninsula became a vital trading port and the cradle of Indian capitalism. Today, Mumbai's character is defined by its hard-working, fast-paced hustle, a distinct maritime breeze, and a deeply ingrained cinematic culture driven by the Bollywood film industry.
It is a city of stark, unvarnished contrasts: luxury high-rises overlook sprawling informal settlements
From our Mumbai guide
Six neighbourhoods, six ways to stay
Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.
Colaba
First-time visitors who want to be near major landmarks and heritage architecture. The trade-off is dealing with persistent street vendors and inflated tourist prices.
A historic, tree-lined neighborhood at the southern tip of the city, filled with grand colonial buildings, street markets, and sea views.
Where to stay Grand heritage hotels near the waterfront or mid-range boutique properties tucked in the side lanes.
Stay in Colaba
Fort
Architecture enthusiasts and history buffs. The trade-off is that the area becomes quiet and somewhat deserted on Sundays.
The historic business district, characterized by imposing Victorian Gothic and Indo-Saracenic architecture, old-school bookstores, and quiet corporate lanes.
Where to stay Restored heritage buildings converted into boutique business hotels.
Stay in Fort
Kala Ghoda
Creatives, art lovers, and food travelers. The trade-off is that accommodation options are limited and expensive.
The city's premier art district, packed with contemporary galleries, independent designer boutiques, and stylish cafes.
Where to stay Upscale boutique hotels or high-end guesthouses.
Stay in Kala Ghoda
Bandra West
Younger travelers, slow-travelers, and nightlife seekers. The trade-off is that it is far from the historic sights of South Mumbai.
The trendy, coastal suburb favored by Bollywood stars, writers, and expats, filled with hip cafes, bars, and old Portuguese-style villages.
Where to stay Trendy guesthouses, serviced apartments, or coastal mid-range hotels.
Stay in Bandra West
Juhu
Leisure travelers wanting a resort-style stay by the water. The trade-off is the heavy traffic congestion connecting it to the rest of the city.
An affluent coastal neighborhood known for its wide sandy beach, luxury hotels, and celebrity residences.
Where to stay Five-star luxury beach resorts with pools and sea views.
Stay in Juhu
Lower Parel
Business travelers and foodies looking for modern culinary concepts. The trade-off is a sterile, concrete-heavy environment with severe traffic bottlenecks.
A former industrial district of cotton mills transformed into a high-density hub of corporate offices, luxury malls, and trendy dining compounds.
Where to stay Sleek, modern luxury high-rise hotels.
Stay in Lower ParelBook before you land
Top-rated tours and tickets in Mumbai, with live prices from Viator.
Private Mumbai City Highlights Tour with Hotel Pickup & AC Car
from $33
Private Dharavi Slum Tour in Mumbai with Local Guide
from $9
Dharavi Tour & Pottery Workshop
from $28
Private Mumbai City & Slum Tour
from $95
Mumbai Private Sightseeing Tour with Top Highlights
from $43
Mumbai Dharavi Slum, Dhobi Ghat & Dabbawala Lunchbox Tour
from $15
Private Half Day Mumbai City Tour including AC vehicle.
from $60
Private Mumbai Sightseeing Tour with Car and Guide
from $46
Prices from Viator; we may earn a commission when you book — at no extra cost to you. Tours are sold and operated by Viator, the merchant of record. Ratings are collected by Viator and Tripadvisor.
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The Mumbai guide
Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.
Where to eat
Dining
Trishna
Famous for its rich, buttery coastal dishes prepared with fresh catches of the day.
Signature: Butter Garlic Pepper Crab
Gajalee
A legendary suburban spot celebrated for its authentic, spicy Malvani-style preparations.
Signature: Tandoori Crab and Bombil (Bombay Duck) Fry
Jai Hind Lunch Home
A no-frills, highly efficient joint serving exceptional coastal thalis to a loyal local crowd.
Signature: Stuffed Bombil and Fish Thali
Bademiya
An iconic open-air street-side grill that serves late-night diners directly on the street.
Signature: Mutton Seekh Kebab and Rumali Roti
The Sahib Room & Kipling Bar
An elegant, colonial-themed restaurant serving highly refined, slow-cooked Awadhi grills.
Signature: Kakori Kebab
Kakori House
Renowned for serving some of the softest, melt-in-the-mouth kebabs in the city using secret spice blends.
Signature: Mutton Galouti Kebab
Britannia & Co.
A historic, high-ceilinged Parsi cafe run by the same family for generations, famous for its heritage atmosphere.
Signature: Mutton Berry Pulao
Kyani & Co.
One of the oldest surviving Irani cafes in the city, featuring dark wood tables and vintage glass-topped counters.
Signature: Bun Maska and Keema Ghotala
Sardar Refreshments
A legendary institution dedicated to serving the most decadent, butter-soaked street food in town.
Signature: Amul Butter Pav Bhaji
Masque
An ingredient-driven kitchen offering a progressive ten-course tasting menu that reimagines traditional Indian flavors.
Signature: Seasonal Tasting Menu
The Bombay Canteen
A stylishly designed space that celebrates lesser-known regional Indian dishes with a playful, modern twist.
Signature: Canteen Barley Salad and Eggs Kejriwal
The Table
A pioneer of the city's farm-to-table movement, offering globally inspired small plates in a sleek, bi-level space.
Signature: Boneless Chicken Wings and Truffle Fries
Aram Milk Bar
Located directly opposite the main train station, serving the quintessential Mumbai street snack to thousands daily.
Signature: Classic Vada Pav
Pancham Puriwala
A historic, multi-generational eatery serving simple, delicious spiced fried bread and curries since the mid-19th century.
Signature: Pancham Thali with Masala Puris
Ayub's
A quiet alleyway joint that comes alive at night, serving excellent grilled rolls and tandoori items.
Signature: Chicken Tikka Roll
Shree Thaker Bhojanalay
An iconic institution serving an overwhelming, unlimited feast of traditional Gujarati dishes in a hidden alleyway.
Signature: Unlimited Gujarati Thali
Soam
An elegant, comfortable restaurant serving clean, seasonal Gujarati and street-style vegetarian delicacies.
Signature: Panki Chatni and Baked Khichdi
Sequel
A chic, minimalist cafe dedicated to organic, gluten-free, and nutrient-dense plant-based dishes.
Signature: Avocado Toast and Acai Bowls
After dark
Nightlife
Kitty Su
An opulent, high-concept club located inside a luxury hotel, known for hosting top-tier international DJs.
AntiSocial
An industrial basement venue that acts as the epicenter for underground electronic music and indie acts.
Matahaari
A lavishly decorated lounge and club catering to the city's affluent elite with premium cocktails.
Aer
Perched high above the city, this open-air rooftop bar offers panoramic views of the Arabian Sea and the skyline.
The Harbour Bar
The first licensed bar in the city, located inside the historic Taj Mahal Palace, oozing old-world charm.
Woodside Inn
A beloved local pub housed in a heritage building, famous for its extensive craft beer selection.
National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA)
The premier cultural institution for classical music, theater, and international orchestral performances.
The Quarter at Royal Opera House
A beautifully restored heritage opera house hosting intimate jazz, blues, and acoustic sets.
Bonobo
An outdoor rooftop venue in the suburbs that regularly hosts indie bands, singer-songwriters, and vinyl DJs.
Art & history
Culture
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS)
Housed in a magnificent Indo-Saracenic building, it features a vast collection of ancient Indian sculptures, miniature paintings, and natural history.
Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum
The city's oldest museum, beautifully restored to showcase 19th-century decorative arts, clay models, and historic maps.
Mani Bhavan Gandhi Sangrahalaya
The historic building that served as Mahatma Gandhi's Mumbai headquarters, now a moving museum dedicated to his life.
Gateway of India
The iconic basalt arch built to commemorate the visit of King George V, overlooking the bustling harbor.
Haji Ali Dargah
An exquisite 15th-century mosque and tomb located on a tiny islet off the coast, accessible only via a narrow pathway during low tide.
Banganga Tank
An ancient, sacred water tank surrounded by temples and narrow steps, offering a glimpse of historic, spiritual Mumbai.
Jehangir Art Gallery
The historic heart of the city's art scene, hosting rotating exhibitions by both established and emerging Indian artists.
National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA)
A massive public gallery showcasing major retrospectives of India's modern masters in a grand historic building.
Chemould Prescott Road
One of India's oldest contemporary art galleries, instrumental in the careers of the country's modernist pioneers.
Timing
When to visit
Winter (November to February)
The most comfortable time of year, with daytime temperatures hovering around 30°C and cooler evenings. Ideal for walking tours and outdoor exploration.
Summer (March to May)
Temperatures and humidity climb significantly. Sightseeing is best limited to early mornings or air-conditioned indoor spaces.
Monsoon (June to October)
Torrential rains sweep the city. While the green spaces flourish and the sea looks dramatic, heavy flooding frequently disrupts local trains and road traffic.
What it costs
Budgeting
Logistics
Getting around
From the airport
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport (BOM) is connected to the city via prepaid taxis, app-based rideshares like Uber and Ola, and the expanding Metro line. A prepaid taxi to South Mumbai takes anywhere from 45 minutes to two hours depending on the notorious traffic.
Public transit
The local train network is the city's lifeline, divided into the Western, Central, and Harbour lines; it is incredibly efficient but intensely crowded during peak hours. The modern Metro network is expanding rapidly, offering air-conditioned comfort across suburban corridors. Iconic black-and-yellow 'kaali-peeli' taxis operate in South Mumbai, while auto-rickshaws are restricted to the northern suburbs.
Passes & tickets
Weekly tourist tickets are available for the local train network, offering unlimited travel across all lines in first class for a very low cost (€ band).
On foot
South Mumbai neighborhoods like Colaba and Fort are highly walkable with wide pavements and shade-giving heritage trees. The rest of the city is highly fragmented, requiring taxis, rickshaws, or trains to navigate between pockets of interest.
Local etiquette
Safety & etiquette
- Remove your shoes before entering temples, mosques, or local homes.
- Dress modestly when visiting religious sites, ensuring shoulders and knees are covered.
- Always use your right hand when eating street food or passing money to vendors.
Travel smart
Practical tips
- Download the M-Indicator app for real-time local train timetables and route maps.
- Carry a light scarf or shawl in your day bag to quickly cover up when visiting religious sites.
- Use app-based rideshares like Uber or Ola for airport transfers to avoid negotiating with taxi drivers.
- Keep a stash of small cash notes (10, 20, and 50 rupee notes) for quick transactions with vendors.
- Always check the tide charts if you plan to walk along the coastal promenades or visit Haji Ali Dargah.
- Book your train tickets online in advance if you plan to travel long-distance out of the city.
Before you go
Mumbai FAQs
Is it safe to eat street food in Mumbai?
Yes, provided you choose stalls with high turnover, ensure the food is cooked fresh in front of you, and avoid raw chutneys or ice.
How do I avoid the crowds on the local trains?
Travel between 11:00 and 16:00, purchase a first-class ticket, and avoid the major terminal stations during rush hours.
What is the best way to pay for things in the city?
While digital payments are ubiquitous, carrying small denominations of cash is essential for auto-rickshaws, taxis, and street food.
Can I visit Bollywood studios?
Yes, but only through pre-booked, official guided tours; walk-ins are strictly prohibited at active studio gates.
Is tap water safe to drink?
No, always drink filtered or bottled water, even in high-end hotels and restaurants.